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What Can You Do When Stung by Bees or Wasps?

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Seeing a bee or a wasp fly around will usually put any person on high alert. Our danger sensors are on high alert, ready for the insect to come swooping down and attack us at any time. Our vigilance is well-placed since these insects are very notorious and they have the most vicious sting of all pests.

Bees and wasps have a modified egg-laying apparatus known as ovipositor or stinger. The stinger is used to subdue prey and also to defend their nests. These insects sting rather than bite to inflict their venom and injure their attacker. The venom is then injected into the wound made by the stinger. The venom contains chemicals that can induce pain, and it may also contain toxic proteins that can induce allergic reactions to highly sensitive people. Bees and wasps usually attack people when their hive is disturbed or out of defense.

Bees And Wasps Can Be Aggressive If Provoked

These insects normally do not sting people, especially if you do not do anything to provoke them. If they fly close to you, you can stand still and they won’t even mind you. However, if you try to swat the bees or wasps and miss, it is possible that the insects will view you as their attacker, which could lead to being stung. In addition, bee stings also usually occur if you have disturbed their bee hive. These insects can be very dangerous because in addition to carrying their venom and toxic proteins in their body, they can also attack as a group.

The Dangers of Bee and Wasp Stings

Among the biggest risks from bee and wasp stings are: allergic reaction and infection. A person can be stung by bees and wasps anywhere on his/her body, and it can be painful and frightening. Here are some of the symptoms of a bee or wasp sting:

  • Pain
  • Swelling
  • Warmth in the surrounding area of the sting
  • Hives
  • Small amounts of bleeding
  • Redness
  • Itching

The general symptoms that can indicate a more serious or life-threatening allergic reactions are:

  • Tickling in the throat
  • Breathing problems
  • Nausea and vomiting
  • Anxiety
  • Sweating
  • Coughing
  • Itching in other areas of the body aside from the sting area

Treatment For Stings

There are certain specific treatments for stings, but it can be determined by your doctor. Local reactions usually do not lead to serious reactions, but they can still be dangerous if the sting occurs in the mouth, nose or throat area since the swelling might close off the airway. The treatments for local reactions include:

  1. Removal of the stinger. Gently scuff across the site with a blunt-edged object. You must not try to pull out the stinger using tweezers since this may release more venom.
  2. Wash the sting area with soap and water, and apply a cold or ice pack wrapped with cloth. This will help reduce swelling and pain, and prevent infection.
  3. If the sting is on the arm or leg, you must elevate the limb to reduce swelling
  4. To reduce itching, you can apply a paste of baking soda and water, and leave it for 15 to 20 minutes. You can also apply a wet tea bag and leave it for 15 to 20 minutes. Another remedy for itching and pain is the application of antihistamine, corticosteroid cream, or calamine lotion.
  5. Observe the individual for the next hour for any signs of developing allergic reaction which will need immediate emergency medical treatment.

If the individual develops the symptoms of severe allergic reaction, immediately call for your local emergency service. Emergency treatment may include:

  • Laboratory tests
  • Breathing support
  • Epinephrine
  • Intravenous antihistamines
  • Other specific medications

About 3% of the population is allergic to the toxic proteins carried by bees and wasps, resulting in a life-threatening reaction to the sting called anaphylaxis, which is a fatal allergic reaction. For this reason, if your area is known to have bee or wasp hives, it is best to address the infestation early on. You can also take preventive measures to avoid being stung, such as spraying your clothes with repellant, avoid wearing perfumes or other scented products, and avoid locations where hives and nests are present.

Citations:

Kris Lim is a health blogger who specializes in allergic reactions from insect bites and stings, such as from bees and wasps. She also contributes her advice and tips to pest control professionals at RovePestControlReviews.com.







Growing Great Peppers

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Growing great peppers is one of the easiest things you can do in your vegetable garden. There are hundreds of different pepper cultivars so you can select just about exactly what you want it to taste or look like.

The two main choices are whether you want sweet or hot. Then you can select by fruit shape, color, pungency, flavor and how you intend to use them. You can prepare them by drying, grinding, freezing, grinding and pickling as a start.

Depending on how you prepare them, will to a large extent change how they taste. The hottest one you can get is the Habanero and Scotch Bonnet.

How Hot Are They?

There are seven alkaloids or capsaicinoids that determine how hot a pepper is. William L. Scoville found back in the early 1900’s a test to determine how hot peppers are. The scale we use now is called the Scoville Scale.

Since the early 1980’s a different method using liquid chromatography under high pressure was developed. The same name of Scoville Scale is used though the method to test how hot these are has changed.

Planting Peppers

Warm and well-drained soil is best for growing peppers. You’ll want the soil fertility to be moderate. Best soil pH will be around 6.0 to 6.8. But soil pH is not a critical factor. These are a warm season plant so need a long, hot growing season.

Temperature will largely determine how fast they grow and how large and fast their fruits are. A temperature of 65 – 75° F is best. When the temperature gets above this you will notice that the red peppers will have some yellow in them. Below this and you’ll see that the color will develop much more slowly and below 55° F you won’t see any color change.

Start your seeds about 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting. Or buy them from your local garden nursery. Transplant outside after all frost danger is past.

Place a little organic fertilizer in the hole and put about an inch of dirt on top. Once your plant’s roots get growing they’ll have a ready supply of fertilizer to kick start growing. Keep their soil moist but not soaking wet after transplanting.

Space your pepper plants about 18 inches apart. Rows should be about 24 to 30 inches from each other.  You’ll want to sue a good organic fertilizer of 5-10-5 when possible for best growing. About 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet is fine. Adjust how much depending if you are using containers or other methods.

One way to really grow great peppers is to feed them well using water soluble fertilizer or dissolve about 2 tablespoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer in about one gallon of water. Pour about one cup of this on the soil around each of the plants roots.

Pepper Problems

Blossom End Rot – With this you will notice that you have some areas of the pepper near the blossom end that looks like it is water soaked or rotting. It will turn brown and feel and look like leather. This is usually caused by a lack of calcium. A soil test will confirm this.

The other cause of this is inconsistent watering. You can over water them or during a drought have this condition. When watering ensure that you water at least one inch per week as a minimum. You don’t want to soak them in water constantly as they will drown. Using a soak-er hose and water time works wonderfully and is what I use myself. Too much nitrogen in the soil will cause this condition also.

If you find that you have this problem a lot, invest in a cheap soil tester and see if you can improve your crops. The very best method for soil testing is to get with your local university agriculture center and follow their guidelines to conducting a soil test. Pruning a peppers roots when transplanting but especially while weeding is another cause of this.

Use mulch to help keep weeds out. A Hula Hoe is a great way to weed and not disturb the roots also. I love my Hula Hoe and it is the first tool I grab when heading out to my vegetable garden.

Poor Crop – When the temperature drops below about 60° F the blossoms may well fall off. They may fall off when it is over 85° F also. As I said earlier, peppers are sensitive to temperature. Sweet peppers love it when about 60 – 70° F.

Hot peppers like it a little warmer. Mulching will help prevent weeds and also assist in keeping the ground around the roots moist. Don’t let their roots dry out, keep the soil moist, especially when it get scorching hot.

Sun-scald – The sun may cause this on the sides that get the most sun. You may see a soft and light colored place on the fruits side that is facing the sun. Any leaf related diseases will cause this to become worse as the leaves help shade the fruit.

Moving your plants under an awning if you are growing in containers helps a lot. Also if you see this then maybe get some of the shade cloth and cover your pepper plants.

Harvesting Peppers

You can harvest all peppers when green or wait until fully ripe. A lot of bell peppers are harvested when green and allowed to mature then used. There is nothing wrong with allowing them to mature on the vine as long as they are growing well.

When you wait for bell peppers to mature, they will be a little more sweet and have more vitamins. When storing fresh peppers, keep them in a cool, moist place with about 90 humidity and temperature of around 45 to 50° F.

They will stay fresh for about 3 weeks this way. I like to put them in a plastic storage bag with a moistened paper towel in the ice box. The paper towel helps keep the humidity high.

When harvesting and preparing hot peppers you may want to wear gloves. The oil from them can cause burns or irritation if you are sensitive to them. Don’t forget to prepare them in a well ventilated room. Wash your hands and everything you use to prepare them thoroughly with soap and water to remove all traces of their oils.

Conclusion – Peppers for the most part are easy to grow. These are fairly tolerant regarding soil conditions. The largest challenge facing you will be temperature. Using your imagination to keep them at the right temperature will really help when growing peppers. Keeping their soil a little moist all the time will help keep them growing strong and producing fruit.

About the author – John Collins has been growing vegetables for over 40 years and loves gardening. You can find more information on growing peppers at his website here.

About the author – John Collins has been growing vegetables for over 40 years and loves gardening. You can find more information on growing peppers at his website here.

How to Keep Your Lawn Pest-Free Without Using Chemical Pesticides

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Many homeowners are conscious about the significance of dealing with indoor pests. Unfortunately, the main cause of most indoor pest problems lies in the lawn. Although some of these critters are natural part of nature, it doesn’t mean that homeowners must tolerate these pests’ existence in their property. While some of these insects and bugs aren’t really harmful to humans, they can still wreak havoc on your lawn, and these critters may even move indoors. For this reason, effective pest management must start in your lawn and garden.

There are various ways to protect your lawn and garden from pesky critters, such as slugs, snails, rodents, mosquitoes, and flies. One of the most popularly used pest control methods is chemical pesticides. These days, there are available off-the-shelf and factory-manufactured pesticides for any pest problems you encounter. However, these chemical pesticides can have harmful effects on the environment, as well as on human beings and animals. For this reason, a lot of homeowners want to avoid using harsh chemicals in their lawn and garden to prevent chemical exposure.

Spread Coffee Ground in Your Garden

Have you ever thought of spreading coffee grounds in your lawn? Coffee grounds are a great addition to your garden since it adds nitrogen to the soil. They also increase the acidity of the soil which is perfect for acid-loving plants. In addition, there are a number of pesky creatures that can’t stand coffee grounds. For instance, slugs hate coffee, as well as picky dear and cats.

Use a Mixture of Black Pepper Corns and Cayenne Pepper

This mixture must be dusted around the perimeter of your lawn. If the mixture is applied to the soil, it will become an eye and nose irritant for rodents or other large mammals. You can re-apply the mixture after a week or after a heavy rain. When you use this mixture, you must keep in mind that it may also affect your pets, such as cats and dogs.

Use Baits and Traps to Deter Pests

Among the most annoying pests in any lawn are slugs. You can make an effective trap for these pesky critters with an orange rind or a shallow container with some grape juice and beer. What you need to do is to save the half-rinds from citrus fruits, such as oranges, lemon, or grape fruit, and place them about your garden. The slugs will then flock to the rind; thus you can easily throw the rind into a compost pile to dry them out in the sun, and use it as compost.

If you have rodent problems, you can make use of traps, such as snap traps, to keep rodents from destroying your lawn. You can put bait using left-over food, and leave it out in the open to trap these unwanted pests.

Use Organic Sprays

There are a lot of organic sprays available in the market today. There are also organic recipes found online for deterring insects from your lawn. Some of the most common ingredients for organic sprays include: garlic cloves, hot pepper, and some essential oils.

Whether you are doing it for the safety of your family, or to simply keep pests away from your indoor property, it is possible to keep pests away from your lawn without resorting to chemical pesticides. These tips can help you get started in deterring pesky critters from your property without the harmful effects of chemical pesticides.

Kris Lim is an avid gardener who had experienced the headaches that pests can bring; thus, she shares some natural methods in keeping your lawn pest-free. She regularly contributes her ideas and natural pest control tips to InsightPest.com.

Five Different And Unique Styles Of Garden Design

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Xeriscape

From the Greek word ‘xeros’ meaning ‘dry’, Xeriscape is a design style where the focus is to eliminate (as much as possible) the need for intervention, using just rainfall to sustain it. Plants are chosen for their ability to withstand dry spells, allowing them and the garden to thrive even during hosepipe bans. Using native plants (wild flowers, grasses, succulents, trees and shrubs) works well as they are already adapted to and flourishing in the natural climate. As well as time-saving, this style is also money-saving as there is no extra expense from additional water, pruning and fertilisers.

Japanese

The Japanese design style recreates miniature landscapes within a garden. Each item is placed carefully in locations likely to attract good fortune. Features are often symbolic; for example, a pond may represent an ocean or a rock may represent a mountain. Many Japanese gardens borrow scenery where the garden will be designed to ‘draw in’ features from the landscape within which it sits. Common features of Japanese gardens include bridges, lanterns, islands, ponds and often a teahouse. Water (represented by white sand in dry gardens) is always featured as it is considered the opposite to stone, creating a ying-yang balance.

French

Formality is the main feature of the French garden. The focal point is the main residence or building, with geometric gardens stretching out from it, to the horizon. Gardens are usually built on level ground and stairways are used to guide visitors around the features. French gardens typically include fountains, geometric ground designs and orangeries. Planting beds are created to complement the main building, are geometric in design and placed symmetrically in the garden. Plants and hedges are manipulated and directed into different shapes, as desired by the gardener.

Tropical

Designed to be fun, vibrant and exotic, these gardens are most suited to hot and humid climates. Although this style can be created in non-tropical climates, intervention including watering, fertilisation and mulching is necessary. Care is needed to ensure the plants survive the winter weather of a non-tropical climate – some may need to be moved to a greenhouse or wrapped up to protect against frost. These gardens are stylised by the use of large leaved plants and trees, with the height of the garden building towards the rear and sunlight falling between the leaves onto the ground.

English Garden

A typical English garden combines the formal and informal style with an emphasis towards bright and fragrant flowers. Roses are the stand out flower creating a relaxing and romantic feel to the garden. Bushes can be left to grow naturally or directed around a trellis or other garden feature. Annual and perennial plants are chosen to give the garden an ever changing appearance. Herbs, fruit and vegetable plants can also be included to provide different scents and supplement the kitchen pantry! Benches, bird baths and other furniture can be used throughout an English garden and brick or stone walls can be used, in place of hedges, to give the garden its defined boundary.

Adrian Harrison wrote this post on behalf of The Lovely Garden. Visit our website for creative ideas on how to improve your garden design in Sussex and Surrey.

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