They were organic roses, but I've had to resort to sparaying them off with fly spray as the organic insecticides I have tried just don't work. So other than going out there and spraying the ants off, which isn't really working anyway, I don't know how else to keep them away. They are quite large black ants too, maybe meatants??
I would really appreciate some advice.
Thanks Susie
turbo works
cut open a lemon or orange and make orange juice or lemonade without adding sugar and use a sprayer to spray the watered down solution on and around your plants.
Tomatoes have Septoria and Blight, need organic help?
I really do not want to use fungicides in my garden to control my leaf disease that is the very last option, so please just let me know if you have any proven organic, natural, or home remedies to help me.
I noticed it this morning and it is my fault. I usually hand water my garden but with the heat and humidity I started just turning on the sprinkler and going back inside. I didn’t realize just a few days of this could do so much damage. I’ve also slacked a little on the upkeep and stuff.
I have cut back most of the damaged leaves on the tomatoes, and pulled a few plants out to help with air circulation. I have also pulled out my basil because it looks like it was affected as well. I did leave a few leaves on there because the plant is in direct sunlight for 10-12 hours a day and I do not want it to be scorched.
My mother suggested I mix some soap, water, and vinegar and spray the leaves, any one heard of this? Not that I don’t trust her but before I start spraying away I want to here what has worked for others in the past.
What organic, natural, or home remedies does anyone have to control my Septoria and Blight?
give them alot of sun and leave them alone and also Vinigar mild soap and water will do the trick like ur mother said and don't cut too much leaves onlt the dead ones 🙂 and give them lots of love they have feelings 2!! leave them in the sun
1.spray misty water in the morning and evening
2. Water 3/7 days
3. see the conclusion!!
Is it considered organic if the seed is planted in organic soil?
If i were to grow a garden in my new back yard (in pots though, ground is too hard) is the vegetable considered organic if grown in organic soil and I dont use pesticides on it? Or does the ACTUAL SEED have to be organic?
You would only need organic seed if you were going to sell the produce and wanted to sell it as 'certified'. For your own use, most organic growers and magazines for the home grower consider the'growing' as organic, in other words,no pesticides or artificial fertilizers. Incidently, if you add some compost and leaf mold or humus to that hard back yard for a year or two you will be able to grow great plants in the ground with much less water and care. If you want organic seed go to seedsofchange.com
Does anyone ever find mold growing around the seeds of organic apples when you cut them open?
It's happened to me every time I buy apples from the farmers market. I just cut it away and the rest of the apple is fine, but I'm wondering why this happens. I've never found this to happen when I buy regular apples from a grocery store. Are regular apples genetically modified to stop this kind of molding, perhaps?
It has alot to do with storage . How long and where!Can you buy fruit from somewhere else . They probably have a different supplier , otherwise just eat around them like you have been . You are not sick yet I take it?!
Organic Garden?
I'm tired of always worrying about not washing out all the pesticides, herbicides and god knows what els out of my vegtables. So i decided that i should grow my own vegatebles. But i've never grown anything in my life. Does anyone have any tips that will help me start out right. I want to grow tomatoes, bell peppers, carrots, squash, and possible my own green tea. Where should I go shopping?
Begin with what you have and prepare the soil for next year. Healthy soil grows healthy plants. Doing it organically means it takes a bit more time for things to break down and beneficial soil communities, including actinomycetes and arbuscular mycorrhizae, need to recover if you till in any amendments. They are your partners in preparing the soil and growing the plants. Know your beneficial flora & fauna in the soil and on top. It seems like a lot to learn but it really will help.
http://www.css.cornell.edu/compost/invertebrates.html
http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/ornamentals/beneficials.html
http://www.govlink.org/hazwaste/house/yard/problems/goodbugs.cfm
To begin asses your soil. What is the mineral content: sand, silt and clay ratio. Next how much organic is in the soil. Here are two methods to familiarize yourself with the soil. Optimum soil percentages are: Sand – 30-50%, Silt – 30-50%, Clay – 20- 30%, Organic material – 5-10%.
You need 1 quart jar, 2 cups water, 1 T water softener OR three drops detergent. Just enough to separate the minerals not to foam up.
Take a soil sample from the top 12 inches in your garden beds. Since your soil may vary throughout your property, take samples from each area you plan to amend and test each one separately.
Place your soil sample, water and water softener in a quart jar. Cover with a tight fitting lid on the jar, shake vigorously until everything is floating in the water. (If it foams you used to much soap.) Set the jar aside for 24 hours.
What settles first is the sand, the next layer is the silt, followed by the clay, and frosting all the layers is the organic material on top. When everything has settled after 24 hours, measure each layer. Then divide the thickness of each layer by the total depth of all layers together. To get the percentages, multiply the answers by 100.
Alternate assessment method
Check your soil's texture by picking up a handful and squeeze gently: If it feels sticky and stays in a tight mass, your soil is likely too high in clay. If it feels harsh or gritty and won't hold any shape or crumbles it is likely too high in sand. If it feels silky smooth or floury and won't hold any shape, it's likely too high in silt. If it molds into your hand yet crumbles apart when squeezed, it has the perfect texture. It is loam.
If it formed a sticky ball try to squeeze it upward to form a ribbon. Measure the length of the ribbon. Now wet the soil in your palm til muddy. Rub the soil against your palm with your other fingertips. Is it smooth, gritty or both?
1” gritty ribbon is sandy loam
1” smooth ribbon is silty loam
1” both is loam
1-2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay loam
1-2” smooth ribbon is silty clay loam
1-2” both is clay loam
GT 2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay
GT 2” smooth ribbon is silty clay
GT 2” both is clay
Black color indicates high organic matter; gray indicates medium organic matter. Red, tan or blue color indicates little organic matter and high clay. Blue color indicates that there is no oxygen in the clay. Therefore, no roots will grow in blue clay. Normally, the organic matter is mainly in the topsoil.
Next you take a fertility test for the pH and nitrogen, phosphorous, & potassium content. You can easily do this or send off for it. The results of the test tell you exactly how much you need to add to bring the soil to its optimal fertility without adding extra that will end up in the water runoff. Testing saves you money and prevents polluting the water.
If you need help calculating how much and what to add there are lots of sites that specialize in organic gardening.
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